I see lots of people using Smooth-on Dragon Skin or other Smooth-on products (for the silicone and the resin) and I've also seen some nice videos with Brick in the Yard Mold Supply's PlatSil-25.
I've watched several "first attempt helmet mold" videos, too, to try to look for things to avoid. I've seen TONS of tutorial videos and I feel pretty confidant with the overall process but NOT with what materials/products I should use. I'm super stoked about it!!! But I want to make it a resin casting of my pepakura+resin+bondo helm and I've never tried to mold something before.
I've been making armor, jewelry, and art from chainmail and sheet metal and now I'm also making pepakura stuff and a friend wants to commission me to build him a horned battle battle and paint it with a certain football team's colors. Avoid emojis, spurious exclamation marks, text in all caps, gratuitous URLs or branding, keywords, hashtags, etc. Keep titles and comments descriptive and readable. Please do not post memes and other low-effort content. Recasting may be OK if you're trying to restore an antique heirloom, but it's not OK if you're just trying to avoid paying the original artist a couple of bucks.ĭo not litter. Don't make unnecessarily snarky remarks and don't downvote because somebody is doing something differently than you.ĭo not discuss casting knock-offs of other people's work ("recasting"), unless exceptional circumstances apply. Repeated ad-like postings may lead to a ban.īe nice to others. Show your process, discuss your methods, let others learn. It's OK to showcase commercial work in proper context, but don't use the sub merely to post product photos or to advertise your store / Instagram account. If you've got a physical object that you want to make copies of, this is the place for you.ĭon't just show off your work - talk about your process, ask others about theirs! Overall this method was much less toxic, much cheaper, and created more lightweight armor.This sub is a place where you can talk about duplicating objects through rubber molding and casting in resin and similar materials. these foam pieces are then glued together with hot glue, or other at-home adhesives, and sometimes shaped with a heat gun. these templates were traced onto EVA foam mats (a cheap, very easy to access material) and then cut out of the foam. This method simplified the rather complicated process of using Origami to create armor, and instead used the flattened sections as templates. However, due to the hazards of working with fiberglass resin, along with its rather high cost for what is supposed to be a fun hobby, a second method was created, called the “Foam Method”. (Credit for images goes to Shawn Thorsson) this creates a strong, durable, and easily sculptable custom fiberglass armor. The original method, called the “Rondo” method (Resin + Bondo) involved printing the pepakura files onto cardstock paper, folding it into its intended design, then coating it in a fiberglass resin/bondo mixture on the inside, and normal bondo on the outside. Say, an iron man helmet, or Halo Armor… And the rest, as they say, isįrom here, a technique of armor-making was developed that is still used today, almost a decade after it’s inception. Like little dragons and toy cars… but it could just as easily import, That could be printed out on any normal home printer, required no This was because of its unique ability to turn a 3D model into something Some examples of pepakura being used for its “intended” purpose.